Arctic Tern Build

August 12, 2017

Spiling and making 2^nd strake pattern

It has been quite some time since I have been able to work on my boat.  Partly due to summer and many family activities, but also due to my lacking confidence in the next steps which includes beveling the edges of the garboards, cutting the gains, and preparing the planks to fit to the garboards. 

I did take a break and spent a week at Wooden Boat School taking a class in building a Nordic Pram.  A Nordic Pram isn’t anything like the Arctic Tern, but the course itself provided me with the needed instruction and practice on cutting gains and beveling the laps which in turn provided me with the confidence that I could perform this successfully on my Arctic Tern.  Thus, I am now back at working on my own boat. 

 

I first marked on all of my stations with marks to show where the planks would land and overlap.  I then made saw cuts into the garboard lap to match the angle that the plank would need to be.  I also used a straight edge to make sure that there was a smooth/straight transition from the garboard plank to where the 2^nd strake plank would land on each station. 

The next step was to use a spiling pattern in order to determine the size and shape of the 2^nd strake plank.  This required beveling some of the stations so that the spiling pattern laid properly along each station as it approached the stems.  Once the spiling pattern was marked I nailed it to the material that I was going to use to make a pattern plank (1/4” plywood).  I transferred all of the points from the spiling pattern to the pattern plank and then using thin wood strips (battens) to connect all of the points together.

 

 

 

I did find that I need to make myself a set of longer battens as the ones I was using had to be taped together to obtain the total length required.

 

I then beveled the edges of the garboard plank on both the starboard and port sides.  After fitting the pattern plank and making some adjustments I was satisfied with the pattern and how it laid on each of the stations.

 

I cut the Okoume plywood into 12” wide strips that I would need for the two planks.   

 

Next step will be to scarf the strips together and cut the actual planks and then cut the gains on both the bow and stern of the boat.

Arctic Tern Build

May 31, 2017

Epoxying the Starboard Garboard Plank

The Starboard Garboard Plank was much more difficult to fit correctly.  There was no real good place to clamp the plank in place during fitting.  But I did the best that I could and it turned out okay. 

Once again my wife assisted me with the epoxy.  And then she would hand me screws as I secured the plank in place as well as watching out for squeeze out as I tightened the screws. 

Clean up went well first with angled sticks to remove the majority of the squeeze out, then with paper toweling, and finally wiping all the surfaces with denatured alcohol. 

As before, I let everything set up for 48 hours before removing the screws and clamps. 

My next step will be to cut out the planking that overlapped the centerboard slot.  Then on to making a pattern of the second plank.

I am taking a short break to apply a couple of coats of varnish to my cedar strip canoe.  I plan to put 3 coats on both the bottom and top as well as the inside.

Next step will be to cut out the centerboard slot and begin preparing a pattern for the second plank.

Arctic Tern Build

May 23, 2017

Epoxying the Port Garboard Plank

After some additional sanding and planning on the port Garboard Plank I clamped everything in place and was pleased with the fit.  Most of the additional planning was on the keelson to remove a crown so that the plank would be flat against the keelson.  Once the crown was removed the plank fit much fairer. 

 

Placed packing tape on all of the forms to that the epoxy would not glue the plank to the form.  I then prepared everything for the epoxy of the plank.

With the assistance of my wife we mixed up two batches of epoxy with filler to a peanut butter consistency and I spread it along the keelson. 

Once spread nice and thick, we carefully placed the plank in position and clamped it at form #4 and #5 (pretty much the center of the boat).  I then screwed the plank to the keelson beginning in the middle and working towards the bow and then the stern.  It was very helpful with my wife watching the edge of the plank as I put a screw in and began to get a squeeze out of epoxy.  She would let me know so that I did not over tighten the screws.  I realized that it is a two person job to glue the planks in place so I plan to have my wife assist me with each plank that is placed on the boat. 

Once everything was clamped and screwed in place we began the clean-up of the squeezed out epoxy.  After scraping as much off with scrapers we then wiped the joints with denatured alcohol.

I let everything dry for two full days before removing the clamps and the screws. 

It is exciting to start to see the bottom of the boat take shape.  I am looking forward to fitting and epoxying the Starboard Garboard Plank next. 

Arctic Tern Build

May 21, 2017

Cutting out Garboard Planks

As pointed out by Peitro, the grains on two of the boards that I scarfed together are running opposite to each other.  I never recognized that but since I will be painting both inside and out, it should not make a difference.  But I will definitely be more aware as I scarf other boards together.  Thanks for your sharp eyes Peitro.   

Today I traced the outline of the Garboard pattern onto the actual Okoume plywood.  After tracing I used my circular saw to carefully cut along the penciled edge.  Finished up with a hand block plane and a sanding block.  The edges are not perfect but hopefully I will get better at this as I work on the other planks. 

Clamped the port Garboard plank in place and placed the Starboard plank resting upon the forms just to see what they would look like.  

 

As I clamped the port plank to the keelson I realized that the actual Okoume plank was thicker than the material that I was using for the pattern, so it will be much more difficult to form the plank to the curve of the forms.  I will definitely need to use screws during the epoxy stage to insure that the plank is held firmly in position until cured. 

Next step will be fitting and fairing the Garboard Planks to the keelson and forms.

Arctic Tern Build

May 18, 2017

Filling and Fairing Scarf Joints

Since I was not happy about the scarf joints I sanded the excess epoxy down and put on a coat of QuikFair, which is Fairing Putty.  Once dry I will sand and then proceed to do the same to the opposite side of the planks.  Eventually, the bottom of the boat will be painted both inside and out so any color difference will not affect the finished hull. 

 

 

Next step will be to cut out the Garboard Planks.

Arctic Tern Build

May 16, 2017

Epoxy Scarf Joints on Garboard Planks

After cleaning off my work surfaces I aligned both sets of Garboard Planks for applying epoxy to the scarf joints.  I used nails to keep the boards aligned and square to each other.  On the bottom board I nailed its position to the table so that it would not move.  I aligned the scarf on the boards and then I put a nail through the board and then cut the head of the nail off. I then pulled the board up and turned it over for epoxy. 

 

 

 

Once epoxy was applied, I turned the board over and used the nail to reposition the board so that the scarf joints mated precisely with each other.  Placed some plastic over the joints and clamped down with some wood strips and screws.  I let everything cure and dry for a couple of days prior to taking off the clamps.

 

 

I am not particularly satisfied with how the scarf joint turned out.  The top was not too bad as there was just a bit of squeeze out of the epoxy and it appears that I can sand that smooth.  But the bottom left a glob of epoxy, which of course is rock solid.  I plan to sand on that as well.  I would like to have both sides smooth and level so that I don’t have to do additional filling/sanding once in place on the boat.

 

 

Any suggestions on the issue of excess epoxy and how to minimize it while still insuring that there is enough epoxy there to make a good solid joint?  I am thinking that I have to get better at my scarf joints.  I found that when performing the scarf, I would scarf beyond the 3” length which seems to leave a low spot on the boards once adhered together.  Any suggestions would certainly be appreciated.

Next step will be to cut out the Garboard Planks.

Arctic Tern Build

May 14, 2017

Cutting the Okoume Plywood for the Garboard Planks and Scarfing

I first cut one sheet of Okoume plywood to give me four 10” strips and one 8” strip.  I planned on using the 8” strip to practice making scarfs. 

The Okoume plywood I am using is 9mm (3/8”) thick so I am using an 8:1 ratio for my scarfs.  Which equates to 3” overall for the scarf. 

Next step was to practice scarfing.  I first built a jig as described in Iain’s book entitled “Clinker Plywood Boat Building Manual”.  With the jig I attempted to use a hand plane and found that this was quite a slow and labor intensive process and decided that I would make another jig utilizing my router. 

 

 

After making the router jig I attempted to cut a scarf.  Unfortunately, it did not work out as I envisioned it.  In fact, it was a disaster, as you can see from the pictures. 

I then experimented with a combination of using a hand plane, a hand power plane, and my belt sander.  That combination seemed to do the trick and I was pretty pleased with the outcome. 

So after some more practice scarfing on my practice boards I decided to begin scarfing the actual Okoume planks that I will be using for the Garboards.  I used a board that was about 12” wide on which I clamped the Okoume plywood to.  I then proceeded to scarf the marked end with the combination of a hand plane, a power hand plane, and a belt sander.  Finishing up with a sanding block.  I have to admit that I was pretty pleased with the outcome but decided to scarf the opposite ends of each plank just in case I damaged one accidently.

My overall thoughts on scarfing are that I think one can get better at it, as one practices.  I spent a good 2 to 3 hours to obtain the scarfs required for just the Garboard planks.  I have in the back of my mind that there are 6 planks required for each side of the boat (12 total) and that half of those planks will require more than one scarf per plank.  Lots of scarfing practice ahead of me.  I would also highly recommend to anyone scarfing that they definitely wear a dust mask.  Using a hand power planer along with a belt sander creates a mass of chips and sawdust.    

Next step will be epoxy the Okoume strips together.